Eggplant is all about texture, so I cook it straight on a stovetop or grill until it’s meltingly tender and doesn’t have any chew. Labneh is the Middle Eastern way to say “strained yogurt.” If you can’t find any, use Greek yogurt for equally great results. Ground sumac is a tart, deep-pink powder that can stand in for the tang of fresh citrus. A little goes a long way, so start small, then add more if you please.